I visited the tiny island that is Italy’s best kept secret and you can avoid the summer crowds

EVER since the second series of The White Lotus aired two years ago, set on the Italian hilltop town of Taormina, Sicily has been flooded with tourists chasing a taste of la dolce vita.

However, this surge in popularity has meant that experiencing that slow and easy-going Mediterranean lifestyle we saw on our TV screens is virtually impossible, especially on Sicily’s busy mainland.

Alamy

I visited recently and the crowds were so much for me that I fled to the nearest island in search of escapism, along with that sun-soaked Italian culture I’d been desperate to see.

And that is how I uncovered Ustica, a tiny island about 30 miles north of Palermo and Sicily’s best-kept secret.

Better still, cheap flights to Palermo and a direct ferry to Ustica’s Santa Maria harbour mean getting there is both easy and affordable.

Be warned, though, the ferry ride can be rocky in high winds, so you might want to bring some sea sickness tablets.

Arriving at Ustica’s harbour is a beautiful reward for the journey, with pastel- coloured houses perched over the sea, like a scaled-down Positano.

It won’t take you long to get your bearings, either, as the gorgeous island is so small it takes just five to six hours to walk around.

The volcanic landscape is rocky and rugged, so don’t expect golden sandy beaches here.

Instead, you’ll find dramatic cliffs and stunning coastal walks.

Although there are a few pebble coves if you do want to soak up that mid-20s heat in the shoulder season — my advice would be to stick to May, June or, my favourite, September, as many Italians make their way over in the summer months.

For those seeking la dolce vita, simply follow your feet through the harbour and the plazas with their cobbled streets, which come alive in the morning with cafes serving hot cappuccinos.

Outside the main town, you can get stuck into all manner of nature-themed activities, from diving and snorkelling to hiking along some of the most picturesque trails I’ve ever laid eyes on.

Divers from around the world visit for the Marine Protected Area of Ustica, an underwater paradise full of rare sea species.

Whether you’re a novice or an experienced diver, Blue Diving Ustica is one of the island’s best organisations to help you explore this stunning underwater world.

Alamy

If snorkelling is more your bag, take a boat tour (or rent your own) and explore the periphery of the island.

There are caves that you can swim into for a truly magical experience, with waters bluer than the sky.

Just make sure you buy some water shoes from the market.

I didn’t — and got a painful sea urchin sting!

Another great swimming spot is the Piscina Naturale, a natural pool on the westernmost point of the island, sat just beneath a lighthouse, where deep pockets of water shine a kaleidoscope of colours.

To explore Ustica on foot, you can follow the road around the island or hike up the two main hills, one in the centre and one near the harbour.

The easy hike up to Rocca della Falconiera, near the harbour, takes around 50 minutes — but from the top you’re gifted with beautiful views over the entirety of Ustica.

Spending one sunset up here is a must.

Sunset cocktails

If all that sounds a little too fast-paced for you, there’s a fantastic vineyard and farm located in the northeast of the island called Hibiscus, with stunning views of the coast.

I found myself there by chance while walking one afternoon and popped in for a €20 wine tasting (make sure you try their excellent Isola Bianco).

Of course you’ll need some food to soak up that booze, and one of my favourite places to eat on the island was the quaint Carruba, tucked away on the town’s outskirts, down a gorgeous cobbled street.

It serves up some great traditional Sicilian dishes with plenty of fresh fish on the menu.

Further north, there’s Ailanto Park, a tiered bar and restaurant that’s perfect for sunset cocktails and has disco nights (the only nightlife you’ll find on the island).

Supplied

There’s also Il Faraglione.

Its bright white and blue stone terrace, where diners gorge on handmade pizzas, faces out to the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Try the octopus salad, too.

You won’t regret it.

Although the island is small, you won’t be short of options for accommodation.

There is a mix of Airbnbs and hotels dotted across the island, but the more comfortable hotels can be found at the harbour.

If you’re not fussed about a fancy hotel, then a traditional apartment feels more authentic.

I stayed at Sogni Nel Blu, a budget holiday home overlooking the port with balconies overlooking the ocean.

A cosy evening on the terrace with a large glass of wine, watching the sun set, isn’t a bad way to spend a final evening here.

If I close my eyes and listen to the waves, I could kid myself into thinking I’m a guest at The White Lotus.

But why would I do that when I’ve found something even better?

Home Box Office