AS an introduction to s’mores goes, it couldn’t have gotten much better.
Toasting marshmallows around a fire pit in front of one of the world’s most majestic lakes, hugged by the Rocky Mountains, was much s’more — sorry — than a dream come true.
The incredible experience was only topped when I braved the ice-cold waters in a canoe, to take in the beauty that is Lake Louise.
For years I’d drooled over pictures of the famous lake and the iconic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hotel, which sits grandly on its edge and finally here I was. A real pinch me moment.
The lake is an unbelievable colour of blue, made up entirely from the melt from Victoria glacier on Mount Victoria which sits at its far end.
“How cold is it?”, I asked our instructor Kevin. “You tell me,” he replied, as he dared me to dip my hand in the chilly, crystal clear water. Ouch. “About -30,” I said to much laughter.
OK slight exaggeration but when you consider the whole lake freezes enough in winter for them to build an ice village on top, where you can skate, eat, drink and be merry, you get my drift.
Even the drizzle couldn’t dampen my delight at finally getting to experience Lake Louise and the utterly gorgeous town of Banff.
Rimrock Resort Hotel n the rocky Mountains in Banff[/caption]
I was staying at another stunning Fairmont property, The Rimrock Resort Hotel, which cascades down Sulphur Mountain — thankfully the mountain didn’t live up to it’s name but the views? Even from my bedroom they were incredible.
The hotel dates back to 1884 but has all the mod cons you need for a very comfortable stay as you explore the Rocky Mountains and beautiful Banff National Park with it’s numerous gobsmackingly gorgeous lakes.
Banff will take your breath away — quite literally. It’s the highest town in Canada, nearly 5,000ft above sea level, where the air is crystal clear.
It’s packed with independent little shops and stores, lovely cafes and restaurants and the friendliest folk you’re ever liable to meet. The atmosphere is intoxicating.
After enjoying its delights, it was onwards and upwards, literally, as my friends and I took the Banff Gondola to the top of Sulphur Mountain where we were greeted by Mirror Bear, a monument to his real-life grizzly cousins who roam the Rockies. Thankfully we didn’t encounter any of them.
A bracing walk from the visitor centre to the summit of the mountain rewarded us with incredible 360 degree views of the park, the town and another iconic Fairmont hotel — The Banff Springs.
And that’s where we headed next to enjoy lunch in this UNESCO World Heritage Site — known as Canada’s Castle in the Rockies.
It’s built in the style of a Scottish baronial castle and inside there’s more than a nod to Scotland with thistles, shields and tartan galore adorning the walls and floors.
A quick cocktail in the Rundle Bar — try their famous gin ones — led to a game of ‘guess the way in through a secret door’ to the Sidecar dining area. (The magic button is on one of the shelves on the library wall — but I’ll leave you to find out exactly where).
Lunch was a selection of sharing plates of the most delicious and freshest feasts.
Stuffed and satisfied we braved the outdoors again on the patio for a mug of hot chocolate in front of yet more stunning mountain vistas.
Fabulous food was on the menu again hours later back at the Rimrock’s Eden restaurant, where we paid homage to the incredible gourmet cooking of the hotel’s talent chefs.
My eyes were quickly drawn from the majestic misty mountainside views to the works of art served on a plate before me. The Reverie Menu was four courses of the most delicious seasonal offerings of the area, paired with fine wines.
Food heaven is no exaggeration. No wonder it was named North America’s Best Fine Dining Hotel Restaurant last year.
Just when I thought the night could not possibly get any better, the Northern Lights decided to make an appearance and we all rushed outside to take in the celestial show.
I went to bed that night even more in love with Banff, if that was at all possible.
Next day I had to drag myself away from the town, the Rockies and British Columbia’s astonishing beauty as we headed to Vancouver, where we kept up the Fairmont vibe and checked into the “Castle in the City”. Also known as the Fairmont Vancouver Hotel, it’s another gorgeous building.
Vancouver, nestled between the Rockies and the Pacific ocean, is regularly voted one of the top places in the world and we quickly discovered why.
It’s spotlessly clean, ordered, bustling but safe, jam-packed with incredible restaurants, museums, art galleries and beautiful buildings.
And the Fairmont is within walking distance of it all and close to the city’s harbour, where ships dock on their way to cruise Alaska and seaplanes punctuate the skyline.
The six-mile seawall promenade from here skirts the city and takes you all the way to 405-hectare Stanley Park, well worth the effort for the views.
Reward yourself afterwards with a dip in the Fairmont’s fantastic pool and a pamper at the spa. Then for me, it had to be an afternoon nap in my massive comfy bed in my HUGE room.
Dinner was in Notch8, named after a train’s max speed and selected because of the Fairmont’s connection with the old Canadian Pacific Railway and its modern day connection to the iconic Rocky Mountaineer.
The food here was, as I’d come to expect, impeccable.
GO:CANADA
GETTING THERE: Air Canada flies from Edinburgh to Toronto and onwards to Vancouver from £587pp and Edinburgh to Calgery (for Banff) with fares from £648pp. See aircanada.com.
STAYING THERE: For the best rates at the 4* Rimrock Resort Hotel in Banff see rimrockresort. com. Rooms at the 4* Fairmont Hotel Vancouver start from approx £184. See fairmont.com.
MORE INFO: For more on visiting Banff see travelalberta.com and for Vancouver see hellobc.com
And, of course, Notch8 features another secret room, where we enjoyed an amazing autumnal-themed afternoon tea — my fave was the Apple Ginger Rooibos.
Fun fact (or for some a little scary) the Fairmont is the city’s most haunted hotel, as a once regular guest, The Lady in Red, wanders the corridors, after she mown down by a car outside.
Historic Gastown is just a five minute stroll away and is one of the oldest parts of city. To really appreciate all it has to offer we booked Forbidden Vancouver Waking Tour.
Tour founder Will Woods was a font of info and fabulously entertaining.
Our last dinner was at another Fairmont, the Fairmont Waterfront’s ARC restaurant where we shared plate after plate of incredible inventions and indulged in a cocktail upstairs at the bar — try the Into the Woods for a bit of theatre and a taste of Bourbon heaven.
All too quickly my first visit to Banff and Vancouver was over but one thing’s for sure . . . I’ll be back for s’more very soon.
